Profits from speculation in gold were put to good use recently - a visit to Niagara-on-the-Lake.
The Niagara River frontier was a focal point during the War of 1812. The British side of the river was sprinkled with military fortifications at various strategic points. A few of them are now protected by Parks Canada. Other than a few sporadic maritime raids by Germans during WWI and WWII, the Niagara Frontier presented the only time when Canada (Upper Canada at the time) ever experienced directly a sustained period of war, a time when the security of settlements was threatened in a very real way (other than the Seven Years' War of the mid 1700's). The threat of invasion from the United States is the reason why authorities decided to locate our national capital in Ottawa, well away from the border. Read this.
Once a centre for governance in the early days of Upper Canada, the Town of Niagara-on-the-Lake has retained much of its original architecture: well-preserved churches and civic buildings dating from the early 1800's, clapboard houses set back from tree-lined streets, and a main street replete with shops and restaurants catering to well-heeled visitors, mostly WOOFIES - well off olde farts).
After staying at various places over the years (both on business and for pleasure) I have settled on a very well managed boutique hotel. The Harbour House is situated in a quiet area by the local yacht club. The rooms are nicely appointed and a few of them have river views. The breakfasts are delightful. The hotel has a nice tradition: wine and cheese between 4:00 and 5:00 PM. It presents guests with the opportunity to meet and share observations about life.
While we generally avoid the main street and shops of Niagara with the exception of a few restaurants and the theatre, we do make a valiant effort to sample wines.
If ever you plan to visit the area, here are some of the highlights which keep us coming back:
Big Head Wines is perhaps, the best winery in the area. Its wines are made using the ripasso method and, without reservation, they are the best I've yet had the joy of tasting in the Niagara region.
Sunnybrook was one of the most memorable places that we visited. It specializes in fruit wines. Initially, we were not impressed by the idea of fruit wines; however, once we left our prejudices behind and tasted a few of the offerings, we found that a new door had opened. I especially like the peach and Bosc pear wines. There are a variety of ways you can serve these wines: just use your imagination. Once, while at Park City in Utah, I visited a shop which specialized in hot sauces. The owner suggested putting a drop or two of clear hot sauce in a glass of red or white wine. I was a bit sceptical, but after trying the "recipe" I was hooked. We have a bottle in the fridge for just that purpose - not all the time, but we resort to it sometimes when the wine might need a bit of a lift. Try it.
Here is a complete list of the Niagara wineries: List
Another great attraction is the Shaw Festival. The Shaw Festival is a theatre company inspired by the work of Bernard Shaw. We produce plays from and about his era and contemporary plays that share Shaw’s provocative exploration of society and celebration of humanity.
The Shaw Festival presents plays in four distinctive theatres: the Festival Theatre – The Shaw’s flagship theatre, the historic Court House Theatre where The Shaw first began performing, the Royal George Theatre, modeled after an Edwardian opera house and the Studio Theatre, the home of our contemporary Shavians in our 175-seat most intimate space. All theatres are within a short walking distance of each other.
While there are numerous natural attractions such as the Niagara Falls and other sites managed by the Niagara Parks Commission, my favourite is the Niagara Glen. Click also on the following link: http://www.tourniagara.com/geologynature/niagara-escarpment/niagara-glen-nature-reserve/
The trail descends into the depths of the Niagara Gorge. Only by walking along the river can you appreciate the raw power of the current and the majesty of the Whirlpool. A few years ago, I re-revisited the trail with a friend from Germany who I had met on the Camino and he was amazed by the experience. Highly recommended but not for tourists in high heels.
After trying many restaurants, we have settled on one as the best.
Treadwell sources its food and wine from local suppliers. The cuisine is of a very high standard - to the point where you slow down naturally in order to taste the food more fully.
The other place which is on our "must visit" list is the Avondale Dairy Bar. No fake ice cream here: it has a 15% butterfat base. The place has been in business since 1956 ... and for a good reason!
